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Expert guide · Ozentya since 2011

Hair porosity in afro hair: how to recognise it and adapt your routine

Two people with coily hair can need very different routines. Porosity often explains why a product works wonders for your friend and weighs your hair down. Understanding it helps you choose the right textures.

By Pascal Chaubo, founder of Ozentya (afro hair care since 2011) · updated

In short

Porosity describes how easily hair absorbs and holds water. Low porosity: water beads, products sit on top, hair takes ages to dry. High porosity: hair drinks everything but dries very fast and feels dry again. Observe it day to day rather than with the float test, which is unreliable.

This is cosmetic and hair-care advice. It does not replace the opinion of a doctor, dermatologist or pharmacist. Every head of hair is different and results vary from person to person.

What porosity is

The surface of the hair is covered with scales, the cuticle. Tight scales let water in slowly but keep it longer; raised scales, natural or after relaxers, colour and heat, let water in and out easily. Afro hair can have any porosity, and it can differ between roots and ends.

Everyday signs

Low porosity: hair is slow to get really wet, products leave a film, long drying time, hair gets weighed down easily. Medium: hair wets well, absorbs products and stays moisturised quite long. High: hair absorbs fast, dries quickly, frizzes or swells in humidity and feels dry within hours, common on damaged lengths.

Why the float test misleads

Dropping a hair in a glass of water and watching it sink is popular, but product residue, sebum and surface tension skew the result. Your observations over several wash days are far more reliable.

Routine by porosity

Low porosity: light products on very wet hair, lukewarm water, a mask left a few minutes under a plastic cap, few layers, clarify from time to time. High porosity: regular masks, leave-in conditioner, the LOC or LCO method to seal, trimming very damaged ends, less heat and relaxer.

Ozentya products for this routine

Prices in euros with an approximate amount in your currency; shipping to your country is shown in the cart.

Nat'yrel Detangling Mask 300 ml
Growth

Nat'yrel Detangling Mask 300 ml

Natural care, free from silicone, parabens, sulphates and petrolatum.

300 mlIn stock

€16.99

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Castor & Jojoba Conditioner
Growth

Castor & Jojoba Conditioner

Soft, strong, tangle-free hair.

250 mlIn stock

€16.99

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Nat'yrel Shampoo
Growth

Nat'yrel Shampoo

Gentle, natural cleansing, free from sulphates, petrolatum and silicones.

250 mlIn stock

€16.99

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Reconstructing Serum
Growth

Reconstructing Serum

Smooths, protects from heat and repairs hair.

In stock

€19.99

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Frequently asked questions

Can porosity change?

Natural porosity changes little, but relaxers, colour, heat and sun can raise it on the lengths. Very porous ends are trimmed rather than repaired.

Is 4C hair always low porosity?

No. Curl type and porosity are different things: 4C hair can be low or high porosity.

Do oils moisturise hair?

No, water moisturises. Oils and butters seal moisture in and slow its evaporation.

Online afro hair courseLearn how to care for your hair with the Ozentya Method, by Pascal Chaubo (course in French).ozentyaformation.com

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